Tocllaraju – Auroches – Ishinca

6Days 4,

Program Overview

Success in the ascent of a mountain of the Cordillera Blanca above 6,000 meters, depends basically on a good acclimatization. The Ishinca valley is one of the best alternatives for all those mountaineers who come to the Cordillera Blanca with the desire to conquer its snowy peaks.

This valley gives us a soft acclimatization. It also offers us the possibility of ascending to the top of three peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, from the same base camp. Uros (5.420m) of easy access, does not present technical difficulty, the summit is conquered in only one day from the base camp. Ishinca (5.534m) of easy access, does not present technical difficulty, the summit is reached in only one day from the base camp. And finally we will be in good conditions to ascend Tocllaraju (6.052m). A very interesting ascent, of some technical difficulty and it is necessary to raise a high camp before trying to climb the summit.

Itinerary

Day 01: Huaraz – Collon (3,700m) Bus 2h / Collon – Base Camp (4,400 m)

We leave Huaraz heading north along the Callejon de Huaylas by vehicle to Paltay (2,800m) town ½h to ascend to Collon 1½h (3,700m). In Huillac near Collon we make contact with the guides, porters, cooks, muleteers, etc. From Huillac the donkeys are loaded up and we begin the trek, between quenual forest and ichu. We arrive at the Ishinca valley and base camp after 4h, at the base of these 3 mountains, at the lake shore (4,400 m).

Day 02: Ishinca (5,534 m)

We begin the climb with Ishinca, because the approach to the glacier is easier 2½h, the moraine is softer and shorter. From the glacier beginning (5,000m) to the summit (5,534m) up steep snow slopes, but not difficult 3½h, the walk is taken slowly because it is an acclimatization ascent. It is necessary to use crampons, ice-axe and rope to cross crevasses, and from the summit we obtain an excellent Cordillera Blanca mountain view: Pucaraju, San Juan, Cayesh, Maparaju, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Ocshapalca, Huapi, Vallunaraju, amongst other. The return by the same route is much quicker to base camp 3h

Day 03: Uros (5,420 m)

From base camp (4,400m) we begin the ascent by the moraine toward the glacier (5,000m) 4h. From the glacier, using ice-axe, crampons and always the rope up gentle slopes we will arrive at Uros (5,420m) 2½h approximately. Because they are acclimatization ascents it is impossible to be exact about the time it will take. From the summit the ascent routes of Tocllaraju can be seen. The return by the same route is quicker to base camp 3.

Day 04: Base Camp – Camp 1 (5,100 m)

After the previous two peaks, we have a good level of acclimatization and from our base camp (4,400m) we are ready to set up camp 1 on Tocllaraju. Depending on the group decision the morning can be used to rest and at midday we begin to walk up a steep moraine to the glacier edge and then to cross towards the coll between Uros and Tocllaraju 3½h to set up camp 1 (5,100 m).

Day 05: Camp 1 – Toclla Summit (6,030 m) – Base Camp

Very early we begin the ascent by the northwest ridge towards the summit 6h. Crossing the complicated section, we have another 800 m along the ridge to the summit, with an inclination of 60° in the last part, where we will set up a fixed rope to help the ascent. Near the summit there is an ascent of 20 meters at 70° – 80°, then we reach the summit (6,030m.) The return is slightly quicker by the same route, 2 pitches of rope abseiling then crossing the glacier we arrive at camp 1 and then continue towards base camp.

Day 06: Base Camp – Collon (3,700m) 3h / Collon – Huaraz (3,100m) Bus 1½h

On this, the last day, the muleteers and donkeys will come to pick up the load and then we descend toward Collon 3h to meet with our vehicle and head back to Huaraz 1½h.

The price includes

  • Transportation to the beginning or the ending of the trek to Huaraz
  • Full Accommodation during the trek
  • Tent for two, dining room-kitchen tent
  • Trek guide, cook, muleteers, donkeys
  • First-aid kit
  • Oxygen
  • Communication equipment

The price doesn´t include

  • Entrance ticket to the Huascarán National Park: US$ 20.00
  • Personal equipment: Sleeping bag, warm clothes, etc
  • Meals for the days not included in the trek
  • Anything that was not specifie

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