Alpamayo is considered the most beautiful mountain in the world. It provides us with an interesting climb by the impressive south west face. This peak of 5,947 m is technical and only suitable for climbers with experience in this sort of difficult terrain; the ascent of the normal route (Ferrari) is not extreme.
The approach is by the Santa Cruz valley and then by the Arhuaycocha valley until base camp at the valley´s head. From base camp we ascend a tiring moraine until the glacier edge, crossing this glacier of gentle slopes we then reach the most critical and committed step of this expedition. This is the ice fall between the peaks of Quitarraju and Alpamayo. Overcoming this step, we reach camp 1 in the coll at the base of Quitarraju. From camp 1 we head for Alpamayo’s south west face (Route Ferrari) 500 m of ascent in ice and snow of variable slope, generally 50/55° until the summit. We return the same route, 8 pitches and then return to camp 1.
Day 01: Huaraz – Cashapampa (2,900 m) Bus 3h / Cashapampa – Llamacorral (3,650 m) 4h
Leaving Huaraz city heading to the north of the Callejon de Huaylas we descend by a road to Caraz (2,300m), 1h then from this place we begin to ascend towards the Cordillera Blanca to the small town of Cashapampa (2,900m), 2h, where we meet up with our mountain personnel: guides, cooks, muleteers, etc. and begin the walk having loaded up our donkeys. We begin the trek heading up the Santa Cruz valley to set up our first camp in Llamacorral (3,650m) 3 h.
Day 02: Llamacorral – Base Camp (4,200 m) 5h
We continue bu the Santa Cruz valley crossing the Ichic-cocha and Jatun-cocha lakes until Quisuar to turn towards the Arhuaycocha valley and continue until base camp 5½h at the head of the valley. Here we set up our base camp (4,200 m) where the south face of the Alpamayo is seen.
Day 03: Base Camp – Camp 1 (5,200 m)
From base camp and accompanied only by guides and porters we begin the ascent up a sheer, slippery moraine until the glacier (4,600 m). Crossing this glacier of gentle slopes we then reach the most critical and committed step of this expedition. This is the ice fall between the peaks of Quitarraju and Alpamayo. Overcoming this step, we reach camp 1 in the coll at the base of Quitarraju We set up our camp 1 (5,200 m) after 6h of ascent and a height gain of 1,000 meters.
Day 04: Camp 1 – Summit Alpamayo (5,497 m) – Camp 1
Today, the day of the summit, we set off before dawn towards the summit. We have 800 m of height still to climb. Crossing the glacier we head towards the base of the famous route Ferrari, opened in 1975 by a group of Italian climbers led by Casino Ferrari. We start climbing beneath the face 2h, then have a height of 500 meters with an inclination of 55° average and 70° in the final part to reach the summit. This leads us to the crest, a short section along the crest and we reach the summit of the most beautiful mountain on earth Alpamayo (5,947 m). Then we descend by abseiling 8 pitches to return to camp 1.
Day 05: Field 1 – Base Camp (4,200 m)
After a deserved rest we descend to base camp in the Arhuaycocha valley 4½h
Day 06: Base Camp – Llamacorral (3,850 m)
Today the muleteers and donkeys arrive to carry our kit back to Llamacoral 4½h
Day 07: Llamacorral – Cashapampa (2,900m) 3h / Cashapampa – Huaraz (2,900m) bus 3h
This is the last day of the expedition and we descend to Cashapampa 3 hours to take our vehicle back to Huaraz 3½.
The price includes
- Transportation to the beginning or the ending of the trek to Huaraz
- Full Accommodation during the trek
- Tent for two, dining room-kitchen tent
- Trek guide, cook, muleteers, donkeys
- First-aid kit
- Communication equipment
The price doesn´t include
- Entrance ticket to the Huascarán National Park: US$ 20.00
- Personal equipment: Sleeping bag, warm clothes, etc
- Meals for the days not included in the trek
- Anything that was not specifie