Peru's Highest Peaks

When the acclimatization to altitude is adequate, and climbers are ready for some real work, they'll often head for the highest mountain in Peru, Huascarán. There are two huge summits separated by a lower saddle giving a sort of double humped camel look. The south summit at 6,768 meters (22,205 feet), is 113 meters (370 feet) higher than its north sister, and the most frequently climbed.

The hike into base camp begins at the small village of Musho, where arrieros can be hired to help carry the heavy load of climbing gear and food provisions to the first camp. The trail wanders through farmland and eucalyptus groves for the first few hours, and then a sharp ascent above treeline finally leads to a flat, grassy area known as Huascarán base camp.

Another two hours up a very steep ridge lies the moraine camp and some climbers opt to make it to this point in one day. The loadrelieving burros, however, can't make it up this section of the trail, so it means donning the heavy weight and sallying forth.
It's usually on the second or third day when climbers pack up at moraine camp and head for Camp One on the glacier. The hike starts with a scrambling across rock slabs, the path marked with stone carins. At the glacier's edge it's a question of finding the best access to the snow through sometimes massive icefalls.

Once on the glacier, the route up to the next camp will often be "wanded" by previous climbing parties. Small flags are placed at regular intervals for an easy descent afterwards and to avoid getting lost on the glacier during a "whiteout" when clouds obscure everything. The climb up to Camp One is unforgettable. Wide crevasses, icy cracks and massive pillars of tumbled ice are constant reminders that glaciers are anything but static piles of snow.

Camp One at about 5,200 meters (17,000 feet) is a welcome relief after five to seven hours of traversing the lower glacier, but the pleasure is short-lived as the sun goes down and temperatures drop to well below freezing. It is in this bone-chilling cold that climbers rise early the next morning and prepare to set off for the final high camp at La Garganta (the throat) at 5,790 meters (19,000 feet).

This section is probably the most interesting of the entire climb. About an hour after leaving camp and crossing a wide crevasse, the first technical part of the route appears. A 30-foot, 70 degree ice wall must be climbed, and quickly because it is a natural avalanche chute. Early morning is the best time as the snow pack is still frozen and likely to stay in place. Above the chute, the route remains steep and prone to avalanche activity. It's important, but extremely strenuous, to move as quickly as possible, leaving little chance to rest the aching lungs and reeling head.

At La Garganta Camp it's difficult to do any more than set up camp and melt and boil snow for a hot drink. Nightfall brings a dazzling array of stars, but the intense cold quickly drives everyone into tents to nestle in warm sleeping bags. At this altitude sleep can be elusive; it's a long night of tossing and turning and trying to stay warm.
Another early morning finds climbers preparing for the summit attempt. Stiff fingers attempt to sort out gear and groggy minds work out the plan ahead. A small blessing is that the heavy equipment can be left behind in camp. All that's needed are spare warm clothes, food, water and a camera for those magnificent summit photos.

The summit route heads up across the saddle between the two peaks of Huascaran, and the climber is treated to a view of distant mountains set ablaze in the early morning sun. Shifting south the climb ascends several steep snow slopes and the first few hours involve zig-zag traverses up and up until the final approach is reached.

Here the abstract concept of "forever" seems to become tangible. Rather than being just one long, gradual slope to the summit, the climber encounters a series of gentle inclines. From the high-point of one, a] I that is seen is yet another. Each time, the climber summons what strength, both mental and physical, is left and trudges on, and each time he finds only another long slog, and no sign of a summit. At this altitude, about 6,700 meters (22,000 feet), breathing becomes so labored that three or four breaths are needed for each step taken. Finally the tricks play out, "forever" is ended, and the summit of the highest mountain in Peru is conquered.