The Llanganuco to Santa Cruz Loop

Is one of the most frequently hiked trails is the 5-day loop into the Cordillera Blanca which begins at the Llanganuco lakes. The route passes under a dozen peaks over 5,800 meters(19,000 feet) and panoramic views abound. Buses frequently leave Huaraz, loaded with an assortment of campesinos, their chickens, cuyes and children, for the small village of Yungay. Here camionetas, small pick-up trucks, wait in the plaza to transport hikers and sightseers up the valley to the dazzling, glacier-fed lakes of Llanganuco.

The trailhead lies a few kilometers above the lakes, near the Portachuelo (high pass) of Llanganuco, and the trek begins with a descent towards the village of Colcabamba. Immediately the steep face of Chopicalqui (6,350 meters/20,800 feet) towers over the trail like a sentinel and soon a few thatchedroofed houses come into view. A sampling of local cuisine may be possible here.

At this point, the trail begins a steady ascent up the Huariparnpa Quebrada (narrow valley). The snow-capped peaks of Chacraraju (6,110 meters/20,000 feet) and Pirámide (5,880 meters/19,285 feet) provide splendid photo opportunities, and a chance to rest, as the trekker labors up the steepening trail towards the high pass of Punta Union. In the last hour before sunset, as camp is set up, the mountains are cast in the silver and pink of "alpenglow".

At over 4,750 meters (15,500 feet), Punta Union becomes both literally and figuratively the high point of this journey. Taulliraju, over 5,830 meters (19,000 feet), glistens in the midday sun, and a number of glacial lakes lie like scattered jewels in the distance. The valley below opens up to reveal a wide stretch of snow-capped peaks, a mere hint of the magnitude of the Cordillera Blanca, and huge Andean condors can often be seen soaring high above the pass.

As the trail descends toward the village of Cashapampa, the scenery changes from dramatic mountain vistas to open, marshy pasture land where herds of llamas and goats graze. Farther along, the trail narrows as it begins to wind through forests of stunted trees and follows the easy meandering of a small stream.

Many climbers feel that acclimatization comes with activity - getting the legs in shape for the more demanding climbs is as important as having the lungs working at capacity. To this end, several short warm-up climbs are favored. Nevado Pisco, just over 5,800 meters (19,000 feet), is popular for its steep, yet quick ascent, and the views from the saddle are some of the finest anywhere in the Cordillera Blanca.

The approach to base camp begins just above the Llanganuco lakes. The 5-km (3mile) hike follows a footpath along the crest of a lateral moraine and gains 750 meters (2,460 feet) in altitude. Camping is in a flat, grassy area below an incredibly steep moraine, which unfortunately must be negotiated the next day. Some groups choose to continue on past the base camp, tackle the difficult moraine the same day, and continue on up to the high campjust below the glacier.

An early-morning start from here allows climbers to make the summit and be back in camp for afternoon tea. The next day descent is quick and climbers are usually back in Huaraz by evening.