Success in the ascent of a Cordillera Blanca mountain above 6,000 meters, depends basically on good acclimatization, and the Ishinca valley is one of the best alternatives for all those mountain climbers that arrive in the Cordillera Blanca with a desire to conquer its snow peaks.
The Ishinca valley provides us with a gentle acclimatization, offering the possibility to ascend to the summit of three Cordillera Blanca peaks, from the same base camp. Uros (5,420m) of easy access, doesn't present technical difficulty, the summit is conquered in only one day from base camp; Ishinca (5,534m) of easy access, doesn't present technical difficulty, the summit is reached in only one day from base camp. And finally we will be in good condition to ascend Tocllaraju (6,052m). A very interesting ascent, of some technical difficulty and it is necessary to set up a high camp before attempting the summit.
Day 1: Huaraz - Collon (3,700m) Bus 2h
Collon - Base Camp (4,400 m)
We leave Huaraz heading north along the Callejon de Huaylas by vehicle to Paltay (2,800m) town ½h to ascend to Collon 1½h (3,700m). In Huillac near Collon we make contact with the guides, porters, cooks, muleteers, etc. From Huillac the donkeys are loaded up and we begin the trek, between quenual forest and ichu. We arrive at the Ishinca valley and base camp after 4h, at the base of these 3 mountains, at the lake shore (4,400 m).
Day 2: Ishinca (5,534 m)
We begin the climb with Ishinca, because the approach to the glacier is easier 2½h, the moraine is softer and shorter. From the glacier beginning (5,000m) to the summit (5,534m) up steep snow slopes, but not difficult 3½h, the walk is taken slowly because it is an acclimatization ascent. It is necessary to use crampons, ice-axe and rope to cross crevasses, and from the summit we obtain an excellent Cordillera Blanca mountain view: Pucaraju, San Juan, Cayesh, Maparaju, Ranrapalca, Palcaraju, Ocshapalca, Huapi, Vallunaraju, amongst other. The return by the same route is much quicker to base camp 3h
Day 3: Uros (5,420 m)
From base camp (4,400m) we begin the ascent by the moraine toward the glacier (5,000m) 4h. From the glacier, using ice-axe, crampons and always the rope up gentle slopes we will arrive at Uros (5,420m) 2½h approximately. Because they are acclimatization ascents it is impossible to be exact about the time it will take. From the summit the ascent routes of Tocllaraju can be seen. The return by the same route is quicker to base camp 3h
Day 4: Base Camp - Camp 1 (5,100 m)
After the previous two peaks, we have a good level of acclimatization and from our base camp (4,400m) we are ready to set up camp 1 on Tocllaraju. Depending on the group decision the morning can be used to rest and at midday we begin to walk up a steep moraine to the glacier edge and then to cross towards the coll between Uros and Tocllaraju 3½h to set up camp 1 (5,100 m).
Day 5: Camp 1 - Toclla Summit (6,030 m) – Base Camp
Very early we begin the ascent by the northwest ridge towards the summit 6h. Crossing the complicated section, we have another 800 m along the ridge to the summit, with an inclination of 60° in the last part, where we will set up a fixed rope to help the ascent. Near the summit there is an ascent of 20 meters at 70° - 80°, then we reach the summit (6,030m.) The return is slightly quicker by the same route, 2 pitches of rope abseiling then crossing the glacier we arrive at camp 1 and then continue towards base camp.
Day 6: Base Camp - Collon (3,700m) 3h
Collon - Huaraz (3,100m) Bus 1½h
On this, the last day, the muleteers and donkeys will come to pick up the load and then we descend toward Collon 3h to meet with our vehicle and head back to Huaraz 1½h.
Our climbing programs include:
Transportation to the beginning or the ending of the trek to Huaraz
Full Accommodation during the trek
Tent for two, dining room-kitchen tent
Trek guide, cook, muleteers, donkeys
First-aid kit
Oxygen
Communication equipment
Our climbing programs do not include:
Entrance ticket to the Huascarán National Park: US$ 20.00
Personal equipment: Sleeping bag, warm clothes, etc
