Huascarán is the roof of the Peruvian Andes. With its 6,768m of height it is the most coveted mountain in the Cordillera Blanca. The ascent of the normal route towards the summit doesn't present remarkable technical difficulties other than those presented by the high altitude and the condition of the mountain. The condition of the ice, crevasses, complicated sections and the habitual glacier change determine the changing route every year. The ascent demands two high camps: Camp 1 (5,500m) and Camp 2 (6,000m), it requires a high level of physical fitness, an intermediate level of technical experience in high mountains and a very good level of acclimatization to the altitude.
The ascent is slow and tiring, however the reward is fantastic: Dawn on the roof of the Peruvian Andes.
Day 1: Huaraz - Musho (3,030m) bus 2½h
Musho - Base Camp (4,600 m)
We leave from Huaraz (3,100 m) by vehicle, heading northwards along the Callejon de Huaylas via Mancos ¾h (2,530m), where we turn off towards the Cordillera Blanca. Two hours to the town of Musho (3,030m), where we contact our mountain personnel: guides, porters, cookers, muleteers, etc. In Musho we load up the donkeys then set of on the ascent towards base camp (4,200m) crossing an immense eucalyptus forest and then into the highland grassland. We set up our fist camp at base camp 4h (4,600m).
Day 2: Base Camp - Camp 1 (5,400 m)
From base camp we begin the ascent to Huascarán, accompanied by our guides and porters, who will carry all our kit, as we head towards the glacier, first crossing a simple moraine and long rocky sections 2½h. Once we reach the glacier the ascent is along gentle snow slopes (rope, crampons and ice-axe) and then between enormous crevasses and seracs until reaching camp 1 (5,500 m) 4h.
Day 3: Camp 1 - Camp 2 (6,000 m)
The route toward the “throat” is steeper, and this is the critical step in the ascent. This step is a 25 meters ice shoot, that without being excessively technical necessitates the setting up of a fixed rope, to remove any risks. We reach camp 2 (6,000m) on the flat coll between Huascarán Sur (6,768 m) and Huascarán Norte (6,654 m) 6h.
Day 4: Camp 2 - Summit (6,768 m) - Camp 2
From the coll to the summit it takes approximately 7-8 hours, and there is a vertical difference of 700 meters. On summit day we set off very early before dawn. To begin we have a gentle slope of 30-40°, which is long and tiring. There are many crevasses because of the movement of the glacier. We will need to cross some snow bridges. The crevasses determine the exact route taken.
The ascent is slow and tiring but the reward will be big, to reach the roof of the Peruvian Andes, Huascarán (6,768 m), from where we observe one of the most extraordinary mountains panoramas in the world. Return by the same route towards camp 2 will be easier. 4h.
Day 5: Camp 2 – Base Camp 3 (4,600 m)
From camp 2 we return by the same route, passing camp 1 we continue to base camp 7h.
Day 6: Base Camp - Musho (3,030m) 3h
Musho - Huaraz (3,100m) bus 2½h
On this last day the muleteers and donkeys arrive to carry our kit to Musho 3h, from where we take our vehicle back to Huaraz 2h.
Our climbing programs include:
Transportation to the beginning or the ending of the trek to Huaraz
Full Accommodation during the trek
Tent for two, dining room-kitchen tent
Trek guide, cook, muleteers, donkeys
First-aid kit
Oxygen
Communication equipment
Our climbing programs do not include:
Entrance ticket to the Huascarán National Park: US$ 20.00
Personal equipment: Sleeping bag, warm clothes, etc
